Cartagena at night

January 9, 2012

One way to enjoy this city is to take what is called a Chiva Bus.  This is basically a bus with open sides and rows of bench seats to accommodate many people.  Unlike a typical tour, this one is at night and includes alcohol.  Being new to this concept, but quite open minded, we hopped aboard the bus with new friends from Brazil that we met at our hotel. Setting a festive tone was a small Caribbean band that sat in the middle of us all and consisted of a bongo player, a guy with an accordion, and another man with a round metal instrument that looked like a cheese grater that is stroked with a metal stick.  Much singing, clapping and hands in the air added to the fun.  Everyone showed their musical appreciation with encouragement from our host and tour guide.   

Along the way I noticed several metal cup holders attached at the back of every seat. They were of different sizes and shapes, not the typical average cup holders.  This made me wonder what they would be used for, and it wasn’t long before my curiosity was satisfied.  One was just the perfect size and shape for the Pepsi bottle, the largest one for the bucket of ice, another for our small drinking cups and the triangular one, well that was for the bottle of rum given to each couple to share.  I began to ponder how the guy who thought up this business would have pitched it to his friends and backers.  I figured he was sitting around drinking a bit of rum and said:  “Hey guys (in Spanish of course) you know those open tourist buses, they sit idle at night.  Let’s rent 'em, put a bunch of tourists on 'em, give 'em a bit of alcohol, music, drive 'em around the city and take 'em to a couple of sites. They'll love it, and we will make a lot of money!!”

What a concept! And who wouldn’t love it!   We were a captive audience enjoying live music, Cuba Libras, and digging the whole vibe!  Then add seeing the city at night and add making a stop to dance on top of the city wall.  We all strutted our stuff as we followed the musicians, like pied pipers who led us all to an area overlooking the Caribbean, and danced by the light of the full moon in the cooling breeze from the sea.  We found a mix of many countries who successfully attempted communication in the best way possible-- through dance, the local language and with a splash of English, and even a hint of Portuguese. 

Also on the wall were vendors, of course. They are always early to the party and know how to communicate with the masses quite well.  Some sold food, beer, and water.  Others were more like entertainers dressed in Colombian costumes posing with us for  photo ops.  But the best and most interesting character was not human at all; it was a small, three toed sloth-pet that was given to anyone who wanted to hold such an unusual animal.  Of course I was an eager volunteer.  This was an amazing experience. It was like holding a clean, odorless stuffed animal that hugged me as I held it.  It took me several minutes to believe it was real. But it was alive, just with very “sloth like” movements.  Apparently these animals are found in Colombian jungles and make good pets because, unlike monkeys, they are so docile.

Next, the musicians led us back to the bus for more touring, drinking, and singing some familiar Spanish songs.  The last stop was a disco for an hour of dancing. Then, with our new found Brazilian friends, we went in search of a late night pizza.  Even with the language barrier, we communicated well with a mix of English, Spanish and sign language.  We found out that the Brazilian couples had just met on the bus and were nearly neighbors who coincidentally live only about 7 KM from each other near Sao Paolo.  All together we were two teachers, two doctors, and two lawyers, giving us a lot in common.  We talked well into the wee hours of the morning and were the last to leave the pizza restaurant.  As we walked the nearly deserted street to our hotel, it reminded us of the times at home when early morning revelers woke us as they walked down our walk-street. We had to stifle giggles and reminded ourselves to lower our voices.  It was a magical night to remember, one we hope others have an opportunity to experience when they visit this town.