IGUAZU: Welcome to the Disney Adventure Park!

February 15, 2012

One of the highlights of our trip, one that we had looked forward to from the planning stages of this whole South American adventure, was the magnificent Iguazu falls.  It is located approximately a twenty-two hour drive northeast of Buenos Aires.  We originally thought we would travel there by the overnight bus so that we could experience what we read was the best bus experience ever!  Apparently these buses have seats that recline into a bed and are better than any first-class airline. They also serve great food and have services that would put many airlines to shame.  However, we decided that being on a bus for that length of time, no matter how luxurious, was not something that we wanted to try.  Luckily I was able to find domestic flights to three places on our agenda for one great price that included Iguazu, Cordoba and Mendoza.  As it turned out, having these flights and relaxing accommodations in each venue was a blessing. Both of us have been sick, me with a cold and Michael with a gastrointestinal bug.  Unfortunately, we were at the falls during the height of our illnesses, so we were not at the top of our game to say the least. 

Of the two days we were in the city of Iguazu, we visited the falls just once because after our first day there, we found out just how difficult it is to get to the viewing areas of the park.  To begin with, from our hotel it was a twenty minute cab ride to the entrance of the park, where nearly tame, raccoon-like Coatis greet visitors in hopes of a handout.  There were several youngsters playfully showing off for the crowds with intermittent stops to nurse from momma. Once through the entry area it was necessary to catch a Disney-like train to the first station.  At this stop you are free to wander on long paths to the intermediate, or lower, parts of the falls, but we chose to go straight to the most exciting area, the mouth of the falls, “Garganta del Diablo”- Devils Throat.  We figured it was good to start with the most spectacular part of the falls and planned to wander down to the other parts later in the morning.   But to get to the Devils Throat it was necessary to wait for yet another train in a long line.  This next train took twenty minutes to reach the next station, after which we had about another half hour trek along a well-constructed, sturdy metal path that wove its way through the jungle, over rushing streams and finally to the falls. 

Along the way it was possible to see large black catfish in a clear stream, waiting below the metal path, anticipating a bit of food from willing visitors.  There were also a pair of large turtles sunning themselves on rocks and even one smaller turtle enjoyed catching a ride on the back of one of the large catfish.  We didn’t see the toucans that were promised, but because some tourists had some food with them, we saw some very opportunistic blue jay- like birds who were very vocal and bold in their attempt to “share” in the picnic. 

As you approach the area of the falls, you can see in the distance a heavy mist in the air and hear a loud roaring sound, which just adds to the anticipation.  And when you are actually in the presence of the falls, it is amazing!  The roar of the water rushing over large rocks and the mist falling like rain is exciting and cooling at the same time.  I didn’t want to leave.  It was the only time during our adventure that I forgot my illness because I was caught up in the excitement of this natural wonder.  I can’t say that I felt it was bigger than Niagara Falls, but certainly seemed more spectacular. 

The experience was awesome, but we were not alone.  We found ourselves in a small area, very crowded with what seemed like busloads of people jockeying to get their pictures and time at the viewing railing. Because of the crowds, we didn’t have more than a few moments at the railing without the next visitor pushing at us to get into position.  Everyone was trying to get that special picture of them beside the falls.  Add to that the challenge of trying to get a few pictures with a heavy mist constantly fogging up the lens.  I was forever wiping off the camera before I could take the next picture.  I was caught between just enjoying the moment and the desire to capture it all digitally for future reference.  Whatever the circumstances, I doubt that any picture can even come close to the beauty and grandeur of that area of the falls, but I will have the sensation of them forever in my memory, and I am glad that we had the experience.  

Our intention was to continue the rest of the self-guided tour.  But when you walk away from the cooling mist of the falls, the heat and ever increasing humidity intensifies.  Add to that a long walk back to the train, a 45 minute, Disney-like wait in long lines at each train station, pushing hot and angry visitors, and energy sapping illness.  This all added to our decision to bail and go back to the promise of the cooling water of our hotel’s pool and a nap in the confines of our air conditioned room, far away from the madding crowds.    Yet as we pulled out of the last train station, I couldn’t help but wonder what we might be missing by not going to the other areas of the park.   However, we were reassured by a few other visitors that the area we had just visited was by far the most spectacular of all the other areas.   But one young guy did add that in one spot, at a lower vantage point, he did find some rainbows captured in the mist coming from the falls.  While I am just a little sad that we couldn’t partake in all the areas of the park, I am grateful for a healthy imagination and will keep his description of the rainbows and the things we actually saw in my memory for years to come.   Next stop-- historic Cordoba, Argentina!